Nathan Jenden
For the last several years, Nathan Jenden has been known as Diane von Furstenberg’s head designer and right-hand-man. But with his debut collection this year, Jenden is already emerging as an impressive solo act, recalling the craft of designers such as Cristóbal and YSL more than his peers. Jenden, who studied at London’s Central St. Martin’s, has swiftly become a master at mixing contrasting fabrics and textures with shapes and historic references. His fall 2006 collection—inspired by “the drama of a Goya silhouette”—offered a rich narrative of powerful shapes and details. Crisp shirts had a Victorian flair thanks to densely layered ruffles at the shoulder and a voluminous wool coat found a feminine twist with a corset-like leather cinch at the waist. Jenden has joined plenty of other designers in pursuit of the cigarette pant, however, his have a smart, modern jodhpur look that might just as easily be seen in the countryside of eighteenth-century Scotland as the traffic-jammed streets of 21st-century New York.

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www.nathanjenden.com