Install your Samsung washing machine
Most retailers these days include washing machine and dryer installation at little to no cost, but if you are looking for a DIY project, you can always tackle the washing machine installation yourself. Either way, these are the things that need to be done during installation to prevent leaks, excessive vibration, and issues with spinning, draining, and filling.
Note: The washing machine and provided accessories may differ by model. You can check your user manual for specific details.
Prepare your laundry room
Before you install a washing machine, you'll want to make sure your laundry room or closet is ready for the install. You should also gather your installation accessories and parts to check that you have everything ready to go. Damaged or lost accessories can be purchased from a local retailer, from Samsung Parts, or by contacting Support.
Here is a short list of traits a laundry room should have to ensure peak performance from your washing machine.
The room needs a firm, level surface without carpeting or slippery flooring. If the washing machine can slide when weight shifts inside, it will cause unbalanced load errors.
The ambient temperature should always be higher than freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit).
You need adequate room for ventilation, wiring, water supply hoses, and the drain hose (at least six inches). You also need room for the door to open freely. Keep a minimum of one inch of space between the washing machine and dryer, and between the appliances and the walls. Washing machine doors can't be reversed, but dryer doors can.
Do I need a drip pan?
A drip pan, also known as a drain pan, is required when the washing machine will not be installed on the ground floor of your home. We recommend low profile drip pans for front load washing machines because they allow access to the pump filter (which requires routine cleaning). Certain models (such as the WA54R7200 series) will also require that the bulge in the middle of the drip pan be less than 5/8 inches. This list includes the dimensions of our current models, and a suggested compatible drip pan.
If you're interested in stacking your washing machine and dryer, here's a few things to know:
Only front load models can stack with dryers. The dryer will be on top. Instructions on how to install the kit are included with it. The washing machine and dryer must be matching models, and you should use the correct kit for that model. The user manuals for the washing machine and dryer contain the information for which kit is needed and how much space is required. This information can also be found in other places such as on our website.
Remove the shipping bolts (front load only)
Before using your front load washing machine, you must remove the shipping bolts from the back. The specific location and number of shipping bolts varies by model, but they are always on the back of the machine. Please check your model's user manual for the exact location of the shipping bolts.
Loosen and remove all bolts with the supplied wrench.
Fill the holes with the supplied plastic covers.
Keep the shipping bolts and spacers because you'll need them if you ever decide to move the washing machine.
Connect the water supply hoses
Caution: Leaks from the water supply hoses can lead to electric shock.
Any time you're performing a washing machine install, brand-new water supply hoses are a must. Using the old hoses could potentially lead to leaks, so get rid of them.
Connect the ends of the water supply hoses to the hot and cold faucets.
Note: Make sure that each connector on both ends of the hose has a rubber gasket when you connect it. These will help prevent leaks.
Tighten the fittings by hand until they are snug, and then tighten them an additional two-thirds of a turn with a wrench. (Do not fasten them too tight or apply tape or sealant to the faucets or water supply intakes, since this can damage the fittings.)
After they are secured, pull the hoses down to make sure they are connected correctly.
Place the unconnected ends of the hoses into a bucket and open the faucets connected to the two water supply hoses for 10 or 15 seconds to remove any foreign substances from the hoses. Close the faucets before continuing.
Connect the ends of the water supply hoses to the water supply intake connections at the back of the washer. Make sure the hose that you connected to the hot water faucet gets connected to the hot intake, and the cold hose gets connected to the cold intake. Getting your lines crossed will eventually lead to a no fill or water supply error (nF, nF2, 4E, or 4E2, nF2).
Tighten the fittings by hand until they are snug, and tighten them an additional two-thirds of a turn with a wrench. Make sure the hoses aren't bent or twisted. If they are, they could leak.
Turn on the hot and cold water supplies and check all the water supply intake connections for water leaks.
Position the drain hose
Don't forget the drain hose! Not installing the drain hose properly will result in no drain errors, water leaks, and even odor issues. There are two ways to install and position the washing machine's drain hose.
Over the edge of a wash basin: The drain hose must be placed at a height between 24 inches and 35 inches from the floor. To keep the spout of the drain hose bent, use the supplied plastic hose guide (A). Secure the guide to the wall using a hook to ensure stable drainage.
In a standpipe or laundry tub/utility sink: The laundry tub (B) or standpipe (C) must be no shorter than 39 inches and no higher or longer than 96 inches from the floor. To keep the spout of the drain hose bent, use the supplied plastic hose guide. Use zip ties (D and E) to secure the drain hose to the tub or standpipe without kinking the hose. Heights will vary.
If using a standpipe, insert the drain hose at least 6 inches but no more than 8 inches into the standpipe and make sure the connection between the drain hose and the standpipe is not airtight.
The drain hose can be installed to 96 inches maximum, but the draining capability can be reduced at this height. This can also cause the washing machine to have an odor because of remaining water in the drain system.
Level the washing machine
Details are so important in a washing machine install, and leveling the machine is no exception.
Front load washing machines only: Place your hands on opposite sides of the washing machine and gently try to rock it from corner to corner. If the washing machine rocks in any direction, turn the leveling feet clockwise to lower it, and counterclockwise to raise it.
Top load washing machines only: Open the lid of the washing machine, and pour the water into the tub just below the pulsator level. If the pulsator is positioned at the center of the water, the washing machine is level and no further steps are required. If the pulsator is not in the center, adjust the front leveling feet by turning clockwise to raise the washing machine, and counterclockwise to lower it.
Once the washing machine has been leveled and no more adjustments are needed, tighten the locking nut on each leg to ensure it stays in place. Tighten it all the way flush against the bottom of the washing machine to lock the leg at its current setting and maximize the length of time before it needs to be leveled again. When you're done, make sure all feet are making good contact with the floor.
Run the washing machine with a small load of laundry to determine if it's level. If the washing machine rocks, repeat these steps again.
For applicable models, including WA54R7200, you will need to install leg rings. Please see the next section for instructions.
Install the leg rings (applicable models only)
For models which provide leg rings, they are intended to be used if you are using a drip pan. So if you have a drip pan, make sure to also install the leg rings. (It doesn't hurt to install them even if you're not using a drip pan, though.) The leg rings will raise the height of the washing machine to prevent the motor from rubbing against the drip pan and causing noise.
Note: The motor will still rub against the drip pan if the bulge in the middle of the pan is greater than 5/8 inches. If the bulge is larger than that, use a different drip pan.
Begin by lifting the washing machine slightly. Turn one of the leveling feet counterclockwise to separate it from the washing machine.
Place the leg ring on the leveling foot, and then turn the leg ring counterclockwise.
Insert the leveling foot back into the washing machine, and then turn it clockwise. Continue turning clockwise until the leveling foot is fully retracted.
Repeat these steps for each leveling foot. This will ensure that the washing machine does not rub against the motor or make a grinding noise.
Connect power to your washing machine and run a test cycle
Now that you have completed your washing machine install, there's only one more thing to do: run a test cycle.
Plug the power cord into a three-prong, well-grounded 120V 60 Hz approved electrical outlet protected by a 15-amp fuse or comparable circuit breaker. Your washing machine is grounded through the third prong of the power cord when plugged into a three-prong grounded electrical outlet.
Before you do anything else, run a test cycle. Close the door, select Rinse + Spin, and touch and hold Start until the cycle starts. The Rinse + Spin cycle is one of the shortest cycles that still uses the filling and draining functions of your washing machine so it's a good one to test with. Make sure the filling, spinning, and draining all happen correctly and without any errors.
If you have any vibration issues, make sure the shipping bolts are removed (for front loaders) and the leveling feet are adjusted and locked securely.
Calibrate your washing machine
Note: On some models, the washing machine must be turned on before running Calibration mode. For other models, you must start with the washing machine turned off. Check your user manual for instructions specific to your model. Some models don't have Calibration mode, so if the manual doesn't give instructions, the model doesn't have it.
Calibration mode should be performed after installation is complete, after any time you make adjustments to your washing machine in the future, and if you ever feel like the weight detection (and amount of water per cycle) does not seem to be calibrated. It only takes a few minutes, and it never hurts to do it any time you feel like doing it. Just make sure you've got your washing machine right where you want it first, and it's nice and secure, before calibrating it.
First, make sure your washing machine is empty.
Then, touch Start/Pause to start Calibration mode. The tub will begin rotating back and forth for three minutes. Once the display shows En, End, or 0, you can turn off the washing machine.
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