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Washing machine installation

Washer installed in a brand-new laundry room

Most retailers these days include washer and dryer installation at little to no cost, but if you are looking for a DIY project, you can always tackle this washing machine install yourself. Either way, these are the things that need to be done during installation to prevent leaks, excessive vibration, and issues with spinning, draining, and filling.

Prepare your laundry room

Before you install a washer, you want to make sure your laundry room or closet is ready for a washing machine install. Here is a short list of traits a laundry room should have to ensure peak performance from your washer.

  • A firm, level surface without carpeting or flooring that can cause unbalanced load errors with the shifting weight during a cycle. 

  • The ambient temperature should always be higher than freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit).

  • You need adequate room for ventilation, wiring, water supply hoses, and the drain hose (at least 6 inches).  You also need room for the door to open freely. Doors on washing machines can't be reversed, but dryer doors can.

  • A drain pan is required when the washing machine install is not on the ground floor of your home. We recommend low profile drain pans for front load washers because they allow access to the pump filter which requires routine cleaning. This list includes the dimensions of our current washer models, and a suggested compatible drain pan.

  • If you're interested in stacking your washer and dryer, here's a few things to know:

    • Only front load washers can stack with dryers. The dryer will be on top.

    • The washing machine and dryer must be matching models, using the correct kit for that model. The user manuals for the washer and dryer contain the information for which kit is needed and how much space is required. This information can also be found in other places such as on our website.

    • Instructions on how to install the kit are included with it.

Remove the shipping bolts (front load only)

Before using your washer, you must remove the shipping bolts from the back. The specific location and number of shipping bolts varies by model, but is always on the back of the washer. Please check the user manual for your model for the exact location of the shipping bolts.

  1. Loosen and remove all bolts with the supplied wrench.

  2. Fill the holes with the supplied plastic covers.

  3. Keep the shipping bolts and spacers because you'll need them if you ever need to move the washer.

Remove shipping bolts for washing machine install

Connect the water supply hoses

Caution: Leaks from the water supply hoses can lead to electric shock.

Anytime you're performing a washing machine install, brand new water supply hoses are a must. Using the old hoses could potentially lead to leaks, so get rid of them.

  1. Connect the ends of the water supply hoses to the hot and cold faucets.

    Note: Make sure that each connector on both ends of the hose has a rubber gasket when you connect it. These will help prevent leaks.

  2. Tighten the fittings by hand until they are snug, and then tighten them an additional two-thirds of a turn with a wrench. (Do not fasten them too tight or apply tape or sealant to the faucets or water supply intakes, since this can damage the fittings.) After they are connected, pull the hoses down to make sure they are connected correctly.

  3. Place the unconnected ends of the hoses into a bucket and open the faucets connected to the two water supply hoses for 10 or 15 seconds to remove any foreign substances from the hoses. Close the faucets before continuing.

    Illustration showing two hoses pouring into a bucket
  4. Connect the ends of the water supply hoses to the water supply intake connections at the back of the washer. And make sure the hose that you connected to the hot water faucet gets connected to the hot intake, and the cold hose gets connected to the cold intake. Getting your lines crossed will eventually lead to a no fill or water supply error (nF, nF2, 4E, or 4E2) nF2).

    Hose being connected to the Hot inlet for washing machine install
  5. After tightening the fittings by hand until they are snug, tighten them an additional two-thirds of a turn with a wrench. Make sure the hoses aren't bent or twisted, if so, they could leak.

    Illustration showing tightening the connection with a wrench
  6. Turn on the hot and cold water supplies and check all the water supply intake connections for water leaks.

    Illustration showing the hot and cold lines connected

Position the drain hose

    Don't forget the drain hose! Not installing the drain hose properly will result in no drain errors, water leaks, and even odor issues. There are 3 ways to install and position the washer's drain hose.

  1. Over the edge of a wash basin: The drain hose must be placed at a height between 24 inches and 35 inches from the floor. To keep the spout of the drain hose bent, use the supplied plastic hose guide (A). Secure the guide to the wall using a hook to ensure stable drainage.

    Hose inserted into sink
  2. In a standpipe or laundry tub/utility sink: The laundry tub (B) or standpipe (C) must be no shorter than 39 inches and no higher or longer than 96 inches from the floor. To keep the spout of the drain hose bent, use the supplied plastic hose guide. Use zip ties (D and E) to secure the drain hose to the tub or standpipe without kinking the hose.

    *Heights will vary.

    Illustration showing the installation of a drain pipe to either a laundry tub or standpipe
    • If using a standpipe, insert the drain hose at least 6 inches but no more than 8 inches into the standpipe and make sure the connection between the drain hose and the standpipe is not airtight.

    • The drain hose can be installed to 96 inches maximum, but the draining capability can be reduced at this height. This can also cause the washer to have an odor because of remaining water in the drain system.

    • If the drain hose is installed below 39 inches, water can be drained in cycles due to a siphoning effect. This causes the washer to display 4C error code.

Level the washer

Details are so important in a washing machine install, and leveling the washer is no exception.

  1. (Front load washers only) Place your hands on opposite sides of the washer and gently try to rock the washer from corner to corner. If the washer rocks in any direction, turn the leveling feet clockwise to lower the washer, and counterclockwise to raise it.

  2. (Top load washers only) Open the lid of the washer, and pour the water into the tub just below the pulsator level. If the pulsator is positioned at the center of the water, the washer is level and no further steps are required. If the pulsator is not in the center, adjust the front leveling feet by turning clockwise to raise the washer, and counterclockwise to lower the washer.

    A graph showing how to level a top load washer tub
  3. Once the washer has been leveled and no more adjustments are needed, tighten the locking nut on each leg to ensure it stays in place. Tighten it all the way flush against the bottom of the washer to lock the leg at its current setting and maximize the length of time before the washer needs to be leveled again.

  4. Run the washer with a small load of laundry to determine if it's level. If the washer rocks, repeat these steps again.

Connect power to your washer and run a test cycle

Now that you have completed your washing machine install, there's only one more thing to do. Run a test cycle. Plug the power cord into a 3-prong, well-grounded 120 V 60 Hz approved electrical outlet protected by a 15-amp fuse or comparable circuit breaker.

Your washer is grounded through the third prong of the power cord when plugged into a 3-prong grounded electrical outlet.

Before you walk away, run a test cycle to take your new washer for a spin. Close the door, select Rinse + Spin, and touch and hold Start until the cycle starts.

The Rinse + Spin cycle is one of the shortest cycles that still uses the filling and draining functions of your washer so it's a good one to test with. Make sure the filling, spinning, and draining all happen correctly and without any errors.

If you have any vibration issues, make sure the shipping bolts are removed (for front loaders) and the leveling feet are adjusted and locked securely.

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